I’m having lunch with my brother James because it’s important to eat and he is cool.
On my annual birthday trip of 2010 I got rained out of the Behind the Rocks area near Moab. So the next day I tried my luck in the Fiery Furnace and luck was my friend that day. It was beautiful.
I’ve been able to visit the Fiery Furnace maybe 6-7 times in the past few years. It has become one of my favorite desert hikes – alongside places like Moon House Ruin in Cedar Mesa and Spooky Gulch near the Escalante River.
There are some really interesting side canyons as you approach Skull Arch. They are short and you have to do some stemming or scrambling to get into them but they are typically great places to sit and think. [Apologies for the poor sound in these videos. The iPhone wasn’t quite up to the task.]
As with most side canyons in FF, you can explore quite a ways up the canyon above Kissing Turtle Arch. You have to work pretty hard to avoid the cryptobiotic soil by only walking in washes or sandstone. But with some effort you’ll see amazing little alcoves and get up on some fins for outstanding views.
While exploring the canyon above Kissing Turtle Arch (I should mention there are 3 canyons there and 2 seem to dead-end), I found a way out the top of FF. The final exit takes you through a 100 ft crack/cave and leaves you maybe a mile southeast of the Sand Dune Arch area and probably just a quarter mile east of the road to Devil’s Garden.
If I’m lucky I’ll be taking my two sons through the Fiery Furnace in January. Brennen (17) has been through once. Ethan (11) has not. Should be huge fun. I’ll let you know if we find anything interesting.
Nearly every year for the past 7 or 8 my wife (and I) has given me a birthday present of having me go on a solo trip to some remote, beautiful place. The plan is always to see pretty things I maybe haven’t seen before and to spend some time alone thinking about life. Needless to say, I look forward to it every year.
For the past three or so years I’ve ended up somewhere near Moab, Utah. This year I decided to hike into a remote area called Behind the Rocks. It is a BLM Wilderness Study Area, currently protected because of its unspoiled nature and some Native American rock art and ruins. The outside edges of the area are popular technical 4WD areas. But nothing motorized, and frankly, almost nothing on 2 feet, gets into the middle of it. So I decided to backpack in, camp and wander around a bit.
I thought it would resemble one of my favorite places, the Fiery Furnace in Arches, N. P. So I figured I’d find a good place to camp, some easy but interesting places to hike and beautiful views. The weather and my mistaken sense of scale sort of put the kibosh on that.
I parked a few miles south of Moab at the Hidden Valley Trailhead and backpacked up the 2 mile trail. It’s a beautiful trail through a high, moderately sloping valley that puts you at the edge of the Behind the Rocks (BtR) area. At the top of the trail is a notch, over which the trail leads downhill into BtR. I left my pack at the notch and followed a trail to the right which winds uphill (North) to the base of the high cliffs overlooking the ravine where the trail is located. Along the base of the cliffs are some pretty good petroglyph panels with a well worn trail along them.
At the end of the cliff you could bushwhack down into the ravine and the trail. I walked back to the notch, strapped on the backpack and followed the trail for maybe another 1/4 to 1/2 mile before going off trail further down the ravine as it followed the outside of the remote part of BtR. The bushwhacking wasn’t that fun. The area has a lot more vegetation than I was expecting so staying in the “dry” stream beds to avoid plants and cryptobiotic soil adds some mileage.
I say “dry” because it never really stopped drizzling and I’m no fan of rain. Still, I was bent on getting back there so I soldiered on. There are not many options for penetrating into the area from the North. I followed a route sometimes called the Behind the Rocks Dog Route. It worked and I was able to zig zag down some fins into the veritable ocean of large fins and canyons. Turns out it’s not much like the Fiery Furnace. Yes, there are fins and canyons between them. But the fins are huge and so are the canyons. There aren’t really slots with interesting climbing and exploring.
In the northern section of BtR there is a relatively open area filled mostly with sand and brush. There’s a nice little mesa that rises up about 20 -50 feet above the rest of the area and the view is great. I think this is about another 2.5 miles from the end of the Hidden Valley trail, but I added some mileage to that looking for a decent campsite.
I tracked up some side canyons to the East to find some shelter. That didn’t work. So I set up my tent anyway and then the rained started pouring. I sat there staring at the deluge for a few minutes and finally figured I’d at least try to save my final day so I packed up and hiked out the way I came.
Another 5 miles later and just about 30 minutes from nightfall I arrived at my car, drove to a commercial campsite that had a camping cabin and finally called it a day. I figured the next day I’d explore the Fiery Furnace in Arches National Park. That’s never let me down.
I’ve finally made it to Moab for my annual solo trip – my favorite birthday gift from my wife each year.
I left home around noon but with a side trip to REI (to pick up a sweet backpacking chair) and traffic I didn’t get here until around 6. Rough. I checked in to my $35/night camping cabin / tough shed and promptly inflated my sleeping pad after trying out the fabric-wrapped collection of springs masquerading as a mattress in there. I locked my room, with provided padlock, and am now enjoying some trout and mashed potatoes at Smitty’s.
I’m excited for tomorrow. I’ll be backpacking into the Behind the Rocks region on the southwest mesa above Moab. I’ll camp there Friday night. Hopefully I won’t get soaked. Maybe I’ll let you know how it goes.
If I’m not back in Pleasant Grove by Saturday night, someone tell Gisele there’s a topo map on the fridge with my planned route. My emaciated (but certainly smiling) frame should be huddled somewhere near one of the hand drawn lines running between two of a few dozen sandstone fins.
Here’s my post about backpacking into the Behind the Rocks area via the Hidden Valley Trail.
Hi, I’m Steve Conlee. Yes, my website is a blog. And yet, if you look around you’ll see that I don’t blog much.
I’ve got my reasons for having a blog and not blogging. They are:
- I have this site because I figure someday it will come in handy – for what, I don’t know…yet.
- It is a blog because it was easy to set up.
- I don’t blog because I don’t (think I) have the time.
- I don’t blog because I can’t think of what value I would personally derive from doing so.
Why are you here? What, if anything, do you think is wrong with my positions stated above? If someone comes up with a reasonable criticism I’ll certainly comment or submit another post.
Otherwise…move along, there’s nothing here to see – except for maybe the About Page. Thanks for visiting.